Public Art Conference Archive—2002

Tour: Downtown Nashville Art and Architecture

History Guide: Welcome to Nashville. This afternoon we are going to take you through two centuries of Nashville’s art and architecture in our historic downtown.

Most likely before you came to Nashville for this conference, you knew Nashville’s world-wide reputation as Music City U.S.A. Nashvillians are proud of this name, but this afternoon you will see that we have even more to offer. Nashvilleis filled with an eclectic collection of public art and a wide array of architectural styles reflecting all of the city’s time periods. This afternoon you will get a glimpse of the treasures that our downtown holds.

As with all frontier cities, Nashvillewas established along a transportation route—the Cumberland River. This is where we will conclude our tour. We hope you’re ready to walk! This is a long tour, but we will stop several times along the way so you will be able to pace yourselves. We’re going to begin our tour at the new Main Public Library.

WALK GROUP TO FRONT ENTRANCE OF LIBRARY.

Art Guide: Before we go into the library to begin our tour, please look across the street at the mural which highlights the pocket park. The mural is titled Piecing It All Together. It was completed in 1999 by Michael Cooper. It depicts three workmen—the artist and the building’s two owners—putting the building façade together like a jigsaw puzzle. The mural project was a collaborative venture among the Nashville Downtown Partnership, Metro Arts Commission and the building owners. Please follow us now into the library.

GREET LIBRARY GUIDES WHO WILL CONDUCT TOUR OF LIBRARY.

AT THE CONCLUSION OF THE LIBRARY TOUR, GATHER THE GROUP OUTSIDE THE LIBRARY.

History Guide Now we are going to walk over to the Nashville Civic Design Center. The Center was founded in December of 2000 as a nonprofit organization that provides assistance in shaping a vision for our community. We’ll hear from the Center’s design director, then we’ll have a presentation on one of Nashville’s newest landmarks, the Bicentennial Capitol Mall.

WALK TO DESIGN CENTER.

AFTER PROGRAM, GATHER OUTSIDE OF DESIGN CENTER ON CORNER OF SEVENTH AND CHURCH

Before we venture further, I would like to give you a little history of Nashville’s development. Nashvillebegan as a small settlement founded on Christmas Day in 1779. The settlement was originally called Nashborough, in honor of General Francis Nash, a Revolutionary War hero. When the settlement was chartered in 1784 by the North Carolina Legislature it became Nashville, dropping the English “borough” in favor of the French “ville,” reflecting the sentiments toward the English because of the war. Tennessee’s population grew rapidly, and it became the 16th state in 1796. The provisional state capital moved to several cities in the next 50 years, but in 1843 Nashvillebecame the permanent capital by act of the Legislature. Our walk will take us to the State Capitol building which was completed between 1845 and 1859.

WALK UP SEVENTH AVENUE, PAST THE FORMERYWCABUILDINGTO WARMEMORIALPLAZA.

Art Guide: We are now arriving at the War Memorial Building which was completed in 1925 as a memorial to Tennesseesoldiers killed in World War I. It won an AIA gold medal for design. From 1939-1941 the Grand Ole Opry performed here. From 1946 to 1980 the Nashville Symphony Orchestra performed here. In 1974, the LegislativePlazawas constructed under the building. One of the interesting aspects about Nashville’s public art—and particularly the statuary we will see in the area—is that it commemorates many conflicting sentiments about our city and state’s loyalties during different time periods.

POINT OUT CONFEDERATE WOMEN STATUE

The first statue we see is titled Confederate Women completed in 1926 by sculptor Belle Kinney. In the South, the early 20th century was a time of paying tribute to what became known as “The Lost Cause” when descendants of Confederate veterans romanticized the Civil War and were nostalgic about the “Cause.” This sentiment is clearly reflected on the plaque on this statue which states: “Erected by the State of Tennesseeto commemorate the heroic devotion and self-sacrifice of the women of Tennessee during the War Between the States.”

POINT OUTTENNESSEEVIETNAMVETERANS MEMORIAL

This bronze monument commemorates Tennessee’s Vietnam veterans and was completed in 1985 by Alan LeQuire who also created the statue of Athena at the Parthenon. The soldiers are dressed in different uniforms from the war.

POINT OUT KOREAN WAR MEMORIAL.

Moving on to another war, we see a memorial to Korean War soldiers. This bronze sculpture was completed by local sculptor Russell Faxon in 1992. The memorial is engraved: “Korean War, 1950-1953. Where Communistic military aggression was defeated.” Behind the statue are eight granite wall plaques which are engraved with the names of war dead.

WALK ACROSS THE FRONT OF LEGISLATIVEPLAZA.

POINT OUT VICTORY SCULPTURE.

Looking back toward the War Memorial Building, we see a statue that dominates its space. Titled “Victory,” this sculpture was completed in 1929 by sculptors Belle Kinney and her husband, Leopold Scholz. They also did all of the pedimental sculpture on Nashville’s Parthenon. The engraving at the base states: “In memory of the Sons of Tennessee who gave their lives in the great war, 1914-1918.” The statue is of a classical warrior representing triumph in battle and stands 14 feet high. A New York City policeman was the model for the sculpture. To left of the sculpture are two bronze plaques inscribed with the names of war dead from World War I.

STOP ON STREETACROSS FROM THE CAPITOL.

History Guide Nashville became the capitol of Tennessee in 1843. Land for the new capitol building was chosen at this site called Cedar Knob because it was the highest point in the county. William Strickland, who was famous for his work in Philadelphia, was designated as the capitol architect. The building is considered one of the finest examples of the Greek Revival style in the nation. Strickland died before the building was completed, and according to his wishes, he is entombed in the walls of the capitol. His son took over the project, completing it in 1859. Again we find an interesting assortment of statuary on the capitol grounds representing a colorful array of Tennessee’s historical characters.

POINT OUT STATUE OF EDWARD CARMACK.

This statue is of Edward Ward Carmack and was completed in 1924 by Nancy Cox-McCormack for the Women’s Christian Temperance Union. A little known historical figure now, Carmack was editor of the Tennessean and had been a Tennessee senator. He aligned himself with the temperance movement and the campaign for Prohibition and as a result of an editorial fight with the Daily American editor was shot to death on the streets of downtown Nashville after he tried to kill that editor’s son in 1908.

In one of the ironies that history often offers, this statue now stands over the Motlow Tunnel, a later addition which provides an entrance to the capitol. The tunnel is named for Reagor Motlow, a descendant of one of the original owners of Jack Daniel’s Distillery.

WALK UP STEPS PAST CARMACK STATUE.

Art Guide: POINT OUT STATUE OF SAM DAVIS

To one side, you will see another reminder of the “Lost Cause,” a statue of Sam Davis completed in 1909. Known as the “Boy Hero of the Confederacy,” Davis was captured by the Union Army and executed in 1863 as a spy. This statue was designed by artist George Julian Zolnay.

WALK AROUND CAPITOL BUILDING TO LANDING – POINT OUT BICENTENNIAL MALL. ALSO POINT OUT PLAQUE FOR WILLIAM STRICKLAND’S BURIAL. EXIT CAPITOL AT THE SIDE. WALK TO BOTTOM OF STEPS

History Guide POINT OUT STATUE OF ANDREW JOHNSON

Although homage was paid in the early 20th century to Confederate heroes, the Tennessee president who was loyal to the Union was only commemorated in 1996. This statue of Andrew Johnson, who served as military governor during Nashville’s occupation by the Union Army, and as President of the United States during Reconstruction, was honored with this statue during the state’s bicentennial celebrations in 1996. Jim Grey is the sculptor.

POINT OUT ANDREW JACKSON STATUE

This statue of Andrew Jackson is one of three that were cast in 1880. The others are in New Orleans at Jackson Square and in Washington D.C.The statues honor Jackson’s victory at the Battle of New Orleans in 1815. The bronze statues were created by sculptor Clark Mills to give the impression of Jackson rearing on his horse in the midst of battle. It was the first equestrian bronze by an American sculptor.

WALK TO CORDELL HULL BUILDING

Art Guide: This was one of the first state office buildings constructed as state government out grew the confines of the State Capitol. Completed in the early 1950s, the building features four bronzes depicting different aspects of Tennessee history created by sculptor Puryear Mims. Paying tribute to the state’s settlers is Pioneer Family showing heroic figures in buckskin clothing. Capturing the tradition of Tennessee’s agricultural heritage is a stylized sculpture titled Farm Family. Next is a sculpture that conveys the volunteer spirit of Tennesseans in time of war in Soldier and Farmer. And finally, Industry, serves as a tribute to not only the growth of the state’s industrial capacity, but to the industry of its people. Mims also created the James Robertson and John Donelson statue at Fort Nashborough.

WALK BACK TOWARD JOHNSEVIERBUILDING

From here, you can see the statue of World War I hero Alvin York. This sculpture was completed in 1968 by Felix deWeldon, who created the Marine Monumentin Washington. York, a native of Tennessee was considered a hero for single-handledly capturing 132 men in the Argonne Forest of France in 1918.

WALK DOWN CHARLOTTE AVENUETO FIFTH AVENUE

STOP AT JOHN SEVIER BUILDING

History Guide POINT OUT JOHN SEOFFICE BUILDINGVIER STATE

This building was constructed between 1937 and 1940, the building mixes Art Deco modernism with references to classical design. According to the styles of the day, its design clearly announces it is a government building. Dean Cornwell was commissioned by the WPA to do the murals in the lobby in 1941. They are The Discovery of Tennessee and The Development of Tennessee. He also did the murals for the WPA in the Davidson County Courthouse. Cornwell’s original designs are part of the collection of the Tennessee State Museum.

WALK INTO LOBBY AND VIEW MURALS.

WALK TO CORNER OF CHARLOTTE AVENUEAND FIFTH

POINT OUT ST. MARY’S CATHOLICCHURCH

When the State Capitol was constructed in the 1840s and 1850s, downtown Nashville had a large residential population. Imagine the Capitol and the streets we have walked on today lined with homes. Naturally, churches sprang up throughout the downtown area as well. St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church, here on the corner, is one of the oldest churches remaining in the downtown. Constructed between 1845 and 1847, the building’s architect was Nashvillian Adolphus Heiman. This beautiful Greek Revival structure is the first permanent Roman Catholic Church built in Tennessee replacing a temporary structure nearby at the base of Capitol Hill.

CONTINUE UP FIFTH AVENUE. STOP AT CHET ATKINS STATUE

Art Guide: CHET ATKINS STATUE

In recent years, Nashville has begun making a concentrated effort to place art in public places. This bronze sculpture of Chet Atkins was commissioned in 2000 by the Bank of America. Atkins, known to the world as the legendary “Mr. Guitar,” is naturally shown here playing a guitar. The sculptor is Russ Faxon.

CONTINUE WALKING UP FIFTH AVENUE

History Guide After the Civil War, Fifth Avenue and Church Street became the shopping and retail center for Nashville. Women’s clothing stores, furnishing stores and ten-cent stores were found throughout the district. In the 1960s, this area was the center of Nashville’s civil rights movement with sit-down demonstrations becoming the model for the rest of the country.

The historic district offers an interesting array of architecture ranging from Art Deco to Post Modern. The Kress building is a good example of the Art Deco style. Built in 1935 and opening in 1936, it is one of many stores built by Kress around the country in the 1930s.

Also of interest is the five-story building across the street. Built in the 1890s, the building was for many years a piano showroom.

POINT OUT ARCADE

The Arcadeis one of the most interesting features along this street. Once a common feature of turn-of-the-century downtowns, this arcade is one of few survivors. Modeled after the famous Galleria in Milan, a local business man created Nashville’s first enclosed shopping area in 1903. The entrances, on Fourth and Fifth Avenues, feature identical Palladian facades. The interior space is two stories high, opening to a gabled glass roof. When the Arcadeopened in 1903, there was such excitement that 40,000 people—a third of the county’s population at that time—showed up for the grand opening. In recent years, the Arcadehas once again become popular with downtown workers for its many restaurants.

CONTINUE TO PLAZA AREA IN FRONT OF SUNTRUST BANK.

POINT OUT DOWNTOWN PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH

History Guide As we have noted, Nashville’s downtown features many architectural styles, and The Downtown Presbyterian Church is one of the most unusual. Completed in 1851, the church is one of the few examples of Egyptian Revival architecture in the country. William Strickland, who also designed the State Capitol, was the architect. This style was briefly popular during this time period, and its design elements were intended to convey thoughts of the afterlife or eternity. The church was used as a hospital by the Union Army during the Civil War with beds filling the sanctuary and ground floor. In 1880, the interior was painted with colorful symbolic designs creating the impression of an Egyptian temple. The narthex of the sanctuary ceiling and frieze have recently been restored. Adelicia Acklen, the mistress of Belmont Mansion, donated a 4,000 pound bell to the church which served as Nashville’s fire alarm from 1874 to 1897.

WALK IN CHURCH

POINT OUT THE SUNTRUSTCENTER

The building seen here across from the church is the Sun Trust Financial Center. This building is an excellent example of Post Modern architecture. The building was constructed in the early 1980s and is designed to reflect the Egyptian Revival style of The Downtown Presbyterian Church.

CONTINUE DOWN FIFTH AVENUE. STOP AT CONVENTION CENTER. STOP ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE RYMAN. POINT OUT RYMAN.

The Ryman Auditorium was built between 1889 and 1892 and is now known world-wide as the home of the Grand Ole Opry. It is sometimes referred to as the “Mother Church of Country Music” because it was home to the Opry from 1943 to 1974. The building was originally called the Union Gospel Tabernacle and was constructed to honor the evangelist Sam Jones. Jones converted Tom Ryman, a wealthy riverboat captain, during a visit to Nashville. Ryman then raised the money to build the tabernacle. When he died in 1904, the building was renamed the Ryman Auditorium at the funeral preached by Sam Jones. A statue of Tom Ryman is at the Fourth Avenue entrance.

This building became the center for cultural events in Nashville for many years. Sarah Bernhardt, the Metropolitan Opera, Bob Hope, Doris Day, Helen Hayes and Mae West were just a few of the performers who appeared here.

The building’s style is Gothic Vernacular. The Ryman recently underwent a multi-million dollar renovation and is once again being used for concerts. Daily guided tours are also offered.

TURN LEFT ON BROADWAY. POINT OUT TOOTSIE’S.

We are now entering the Broadway Historic District which you can see is a fascinating mix of late 19th and early 20th century building styles and businesses ranging from up-scale restaurants to honky-tonk bars. You’ll notice as we walk along that several of the buildings have the date of construction imprinted into the facades.

The building you see here is Tootsie’s. Tradition has it that a painter mistakenly painted this building orchid purple, making it the most noticeable building on an already distinctive row. Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge was owned and operated by Tootsie Bess for 18 years, from 1960 until 1978. Tootsie was known as a friend to the starving musician trying to find a place in the music business. Kris Kristofferson and Willie Nelson were just two of the struggling artists she befriended. She also hosted famous customers who were performing at the Ryman and who would slip over here for a drink after the show.

CONTINUE TO HATCH SHOW PRINT.

Art Guide: STOP AT HATCH SHOW PRINT

This building houses one of America’s oldest surviving show poster printers. It was founded in 1879 by two brothers. One of the brothers, Will Hatch, took over the business in 1920 and transformed the posters into an art form. Hatch supplied promotional handbills and posters for performers and events throughout the Southeast for many decades. In 1938, the shop was given the official Grand Ole Opry account and is best known for posters of Grand Ole Opry stars. Today, Hatch’s work for contemporary artists uses the same letterpress techniques that have been used since the 15th century. If you peek inside, you’ll see that one wall is entirely lined with thousands of wood and metal blocks used to create their unique posters.

WALK TO TENNESSEEFOX TROT CAROUSEL

This unique sculptural landmark was completed in 1998 by internationally renowned, Nashville-born artist Red Grooms. It is designed to be a tribute to Tennessee’s culture and history. Grooms carved 36 riding figures ranging from Andrew Jackson and Davy Crockett to Kitty Wells. Now it’s time to choose your historical character and take a ride!

WALK TO SECOND AVENUE. STOP AT SILVER DOLLAR SALOON.

History Guide This building, known as the Silver Dollar Saloon, was built in 1893. The architect was Jules Zwycker. The tower and lookout on the top level make it one of the district’s most distinctive buildings. In its early days, it housed a saloon until Prohibition turned it into a soft drink emporium. At one time, there were real silver dollars in the floor.

You may also be interested in why the buildings across the street look so plain compared to the fancy Victorian warehouses on this side. In 1931, the city decided to widen Second Avenue. In order to do that, the facades were removed from all of the buildings on the other side of the street, making more space for a wider road.

WALK TO WATKINS BLOCK.

History Guide We are finishing today’s tour where Nashville began—along the river. As we mentioned at the beginning of the tour, the first settlers arrived here in 1779—on Christmas Day—a day so cold that the Cumberland Riverwas frozen, and they walked across!

From this inauspicious beginning, Nashville grew into a thriving frontier town. By the mid-19th century, Nashville was the second largest city west of the Appalachian Mountains. The row of buildings you see here were warehouses which handled bulk shipments of dry goods, hardware and groceries which had been arrived on the Cumberland. The goods were unloaded on Front Street—originally called Water Street—and sold out of the storefront doors on this street—which was appropriately called Market Street. As development moved away from here in the 20th century, the area fell into decline. In the past two decades, the Market Street Historic District has been the focus of intensive revitalization. Today, it is a popular setting for locals and visitors with an array of retailers, restaurants and office space.

Art Guide: POINT OUT THE WATKINS BLOCK

To bring our “art and architecture” tour theme to an appropriate conclusion, please look at this row of buildings known as the Watkins Block. They are named for Samuel Watkins. Samuel was a bonded servant to Jonathan Robertson, the oldest son of Nashville founder James Robertson, until he was 19. He was a brick mason apprentice in Clarksvilleand eventually built a fortune in the masonry business, contributing to Nashville’s rising skyline. He also served as President of the Nashville Gas and Light Company.

When he died in 1880, he left land at the corner of 6th and Church Streetand a $100,000 endowment for an institute. The Watkins Institute opened in 1885 as an art school. Today, although no longer located downtown, the school which is now Watkins College of Art and Design, is Nashville’s premiere arts education school, graduating specialists in fine arts, film, graphic design, interior design and photography.

Happily, the Watkins Block, which is part of this historically significant row of Victorian architecture, has been restored and is in use.

Thank you and have a great stay in Nashville!